Vionnet

Hussein Chalayan produced a demi-couture collection for Goga Ashkenazi’sVionnet, where he tried to move the fashion dial forward, and not just revisiting the archives.

Chalayan chose industrial design as a starting point. Spiral staircases, furniture, electric wires—it was all laid out on a mood board at a preview. In the past, his conceptual approach extended his reach. Here, the “melting shelves” idea he used to create sculptural shapes fell a bit flat. Meanwhile, dresses in a print and embroidery motif derived from patternmakers’ toiles—”a comment on dressmaking itself,” he called it—looked stiff.

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein

Vionnet Couture SS 2014 by Chalayan Hussein